Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001
Glenn,
I have noted that in an 1800list message a while ago you mentioned two J.C. Whitney parts as being appropriate for ball joints (steering connection and suspension as separate items): 81ZX2149N and 88ZX1770B. I am slightly confused. I suspect that my suspension ball joints are old and worn, as I have seen the same tight steering on pavement and looser steering on gravel that you mention in your web material. I wanted to replace the ball joints on the A-arms (I thought these were the relevant ones). Did I bark up the wrong tree for the ball joint press? I don't understand (nor am I complaining, BTW) the difference in the two JCW tools above (total new cost $27 plus shipping) and the press you purchased for $95 or so. Can I use the square job with the A-arms still in the car, or do I have to do a full removal? When should I consider replacing the A-arm bushings? I think you mentioned Delrin replacements for the '63 you have. I will be doing this on #9892, a '64. Thanks for your time and interest.
-- Michael Tiefenback
Michael - The type of ball joint press you need depends, of course, on the type of ball joint you are trying to remove. The big, square-frame job, J.C. Whitney #14TS3624Y* ($94.99) may be used to remove the upper ball joint from the A-frame in mid and late production 1800s, probably without removing the A-frame from the car. I also have used it for many other press jobs, including various bearings and bushings.
On earlier 1800s, the upper ball joint is attached to the A-frame with bolts, so it's not necessary to use a press to remove it from the A-frame. Same goes for the lower ball joints on all 1800s. Note that it's possible to substitute later A-frames on earlier cars and vice-versa, and it may even be possible to substitute A-frames and ball joints from other Volvo models, so your car may be configured differently from stock.
You will need another type of ball joint tool to remove both the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle. Many people use a hammer and wedge with varying degrees of success. I think this is a good way to damage parts. Much better is to use a tool like J.C. Whitney #88TS1770B, described as a "screw-type ball joint remover." When positioned carefully and kept in place while working, it makes the job routine.
For removing tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and arms, a lever-type ball joint remover is best, such as the J.C. Whitney #81TS2149N. There is a picture of a similar tool in use in the Haynes manual, figure 11.11.
A-frame bushings should be replaced when they make noise, when they are loose, or when they are obviously deformed or damaged. The Delrin bushings sold by IPD make excellent replacements for the original lower A-frame bushings on early cars. Some custom fitting may be necessary to avoid having the steel sleeve slide back and forth on the Delrin bushing. This is easy to do simply by sanding the inside ends of the bushing halves until the outer lips are snug against the sleeve. Then add shims or fender washers between the bushing and the crossmember to take up the slack. -Glenn.
*The letters "TS" in the J.C. Whitney part numbers quoted above may be different in different catalogs.
1800list http://groups.yahoo.com/group/1800list
IPD Company, Inc. http://www.ipdusa.com
J.C. Whitney & Co. http://www.jcwhitney.com