Sun, 28 Sep 97
From: "Robert P. Marks" <rpmarks@gis.net>
I just purchased a 1969 1800S. I had one from 1977 to 1982, when a Lincoln Mark III met me by accident and rear-ended me, totalling the car. Anyway, I just bought one that has been sitting in a dry barn for the past twelve years. I haven't tried to start it yet. So far, following the advice of my mechanic, I've poured Marvel Mystery Oil into the cylinders with the intent of letting it soak for a couple of days. He next suggested that I turn the engine over by hand to make sure nothing is sticking. Would you recommend also removing the valve cover and oiling all of the moving parts BEFORE attempting to start the engine?
As this is going to be a long term project, I have plenty of time, even though my patience is driving my two sons crazy. I am open to any and all advice you could offer me. I know I'll probably have to redo the brakes and the front end and would appreciate any assistance you can offer.
Also, I was listening to "Click and Clack" on PBS last year, and they mentioned a valve problem on an 1800 which was caused by running it on unleaded gas. Have you encountered any similar problems and is there a lead additive that could be added to the gas to alleviate any such problems?
Bob Marks
Medfield, MA
Bob -
Congratulations on your purchase. There are several things I would do before attempting to start the engine. First, I would change the oil and oil filter. Pouring in the new oil will help lubricate the valve train and camshaft.
If necessary, use some carburetor choke cleaner (Berryman's B-12) to remove dirt and grease from the outside of the carbs and throttle linkage. Finish by lubricating the linkage with WD-40. Remove the air filters and dashpot plungers (keep them in order) and gently lift each carburetor piston to see if it moves freely. Keep a rag handy to wipe up dashpot oil.
[The following instructions apply to SU carbs - don't know about Strombergs.] If the pistons don't move freely, remove the dashpot plunger and then the vacuum dome from each carb and wipe it out with WD-40 and a clean rag. Do them one at a time so you don't mix them up, and be very careful when removing, because the piston might stick to the dome and then fall out just when you're holding it four feet over a hard surface.
Assuming the piston-and-needle assembly stays in the carb, remove it slowly while keeping it straight so as not to bend or scratch the needle. Pour out any oil and whatever else remains in the dashpot. Clean the piston with WD-40 and a clean rag. Remember the spring when replacing the dome. Fill the dashpots to ¼-inch below the threads with SAE 20 oil and check after patiently installing the plungers (they install slowly).
It might be a good idea to remove the contact points from the distributor and either file and polish them or replace them with new ones. Check and adjust the gap after installing.
To make sure the engine is well-oiled before starting, remove the spark plugs (tag the wires first for identification) and crank it ten or fifteen revolutions or until you notice a difference in the sound or speed. This signifies that you have oil throughout the system. Before cranking, it is smart to remove the large wire from the ignition coil to prevent open sparks in the engine compartment. As long as you have the plugs out, might as well replace them with new ones properly gapped.
Other than that, I would check the electrical connections, fuel lines, belts and fluid levels. It sounds like you have a good grasp of the problems you're likely to encounter, since you mention engine, brakes and front end. The unleaded gas thing is overblown in my opinion. Tetraethyl lead was added to gasoline mainly to raise the octane rating. That's why you never see 95-octane gas any more.
If you run your 1800 on regular unleaded 87-octane gas, you will have trouble with pre-ignition and running-on after you turn it off. Both of these things are likely to cause valve damage over time. Use 93-octane, super unleaded gas from the larger oil companies and, if necessary, retard the ignition timing a few degrees to avoid these problems. If this doesn't work, replace the head gasket with a thicker one (available from Volvo or IPD) to reduce the engine's compression.
Good luck on your project.
-Glenn.