Tue, 23 Sep 97
Glenn,
It was with great pleasure that I read your new story of big ball joints in cowtown. I think I may have figured out my steering problem. Last weekend I replaced the rubber steering column coupling in my 1970 1800 as recommended by Bill Webb in his book. The thought of losing all steering control when the old one finally cracked all the way through was a bit frightening. I changed them, and apart from getting the steering wheel upside down the first time, everything went smoothly.
But in the process of installing the new one I did some things which may have been bad. In order to get the holes in the column lined up with those in the coupling disc, I had to turn both the steering wheel and the tire itself. It took a bit of force to turn the tire, and I was wondering if this may have damaged the ball joints, because the steering is very hard now, and most definitely was not before. For example, when I turn a corner and let go of the wheel, it just keeps turning. If I drove long enough, the wheels would come back to straight, but chances are I would hit something by then. This was not the case before my handiwork. So, do you think this could damage the ball joints?
The jacking members in my car are rusted out (new ones are on the way) so jacking it up by the A-arms is the only choice. But you say this is the way to do it? Would that not put pressure on the suspension and steering components, making removal more difficult? I guess not, by your description.
Thank you for your time,
Justin Little
js-little@classic.msn.com
Justin-
I replaced the steering coupling disk once several years ago. Of course you have to adjust the position of the two parts of the steering column so they line up with the bolt holes. The new part, with its stiff rubber, will make the steering stiffer than it was before (and more precise). If your steering was getting difficult because of wear in the ball joints, it could become more apparent with the addition of the new coupler.
I doubt you could harm the ball joints by applying your own strength to the front wheels to line up the steering column. They are designed to deal with forces much greater than most people can manage.
Look at a picture of the front suspension in a workshop manual before you replace the lower ball joints. The job is not difficult, but you must be aware of the danger presented by the weight of the car and the tension of the spring. It is true that you have to jack up the lower A-frame. If you jack up the body of the car, the coil spring will be released suddenly when you remove the ball joint. Make sure the car is on a flat concrete surface, the jack is stable and securely placed, and never get under the car when it's on a jack. It's a good idea to slide the road wheel under the car after removing it in case of jack failure, earthquake, whatever.
The jack should be placed underneath the lower A-frame just outboard of the shock absorber mounting, but not so that it blocks access to the four bolts holding the ball joint to the A-frame. I use a large piece of rubber to cushion the jack where it touches the A-frame. Loosen the wheel nuts before jacking the tire off the floor. After you get the wheel off, wedge a small piece of two-by-four lumber between the upper A-frame and the crossmember. This will keep the upper A-frame and the brake assembly from falling and resting on the crossmember when you remove the lower ball joint.
So you don't knock the car off the jack, be careful about exerting a lot of force when removing the ball joint. Try to counterbalance forces by holding wrenches parallel when undoing bolts. It is much easier and safer to use the ball joint removal tool rather than a hammer and/or torch to get the ball joint stem out of the steering knuckle.
Have fun!
-Glenn.